Cosmetic compositions

ABSTRACT

A skin care composition in the form of an oil-in-water dispersion which comprises a silicone gum having a molecular weight of from about 200,000 to about 4,000,000 and wherein the composition additionally incorporates a fatty acid ester emulsifier based on a mixture of sorbitan acid ester and sucrose fatty acid ester. The composition provides improved moisturization, skin feel and skin care benefits and reduced greasiness, together with excellent rub-in and absorption characteristics.

This application is a 371 of PCT/US94/01134 filed Feb. 1, 1994.

TECHNICAL FIELD

The present invention relates to cosmetic compositions. In particular itrelates to cosmetic compositions in the form of emulsions or lotionswhich provide improved moisturization, skin feel and skin care benefitsand reduced greasiness, together with excellent rub-in and absorptioncharacteristics. The compositions also display excellent stabilitycharacteristics at normal and elevated temperatures.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

Skin is made up of several layers of cells which coat and protect thekeratin and collagen fibrous proteins that form the skeleton of itsstructure. The outermost of these layers, referred to as the stratumcorneum, is known to be composed of 25 nm protein bundles surrounded by8 nm thick layers. Anionic surfactants and organic solvents typicallypenetrate the stratum corneum membrane and, by delipidization (i.e.removal of the lipids from the stratum corneum), destroy its integrity.This destruction of the skin surface topography leads to a rough feeland may eventually permit the surfactant. or solvent to interact withthe keratin, creating irritation.

It is now recognised that maintaining the proper water gradient acrossthe stratum corneum is important to its functionality. Most of thiswater, which is sometimes considered to be the stratum corneum'splasticizer, comes from inside the body. If the humidity is too low,such as in a cold climate, insufficient water remains in the outerlayers of the stratum corneum to properly plasticize the tissue, and theskin begins to scale and becomes itchy. Skin permeability is alsodecreased somewhat when there is inadequate water across the stratumcorneum. On the other hand, too much water on the outside of the skincauses the stratum corneum to ultimately sorb three to five times itsown weight of bound water. This swells and puckers the skin and resultsin approximately a two to three fold increase in the permeability of theskin to water and other polar molecules.

Thus, a need exists for compositions which will assist the stratumcorneum in maintaining its barrier and water-retention functions atoptimum performance in spite of deleterious interactions which the skinmay encounter in washing, work, and recreation.

Conventional cosmetic cream and lotion compositions as described, forexample, in Sagarin, Cosmetics Science and Technology, 2nd Edition, Vol.I, Wiley Interscience (1972) and Encyclopaedia of Chemical Technology,Third Edition, Volume 7 are known to provide varying degrees ofemolliency, barrier and water-retention (moisturizing) benefits.However, they can also suffer serious negatives in terms of skin feel(i.e. they often feel very greasy on the skin) as well as having poorrub-in, absorption and residue characteristics.

The present invention therefore provides skin-care cosmetic compositionswhich provide improvements in moisturization, absorption, skin feel andskin care characteristics and which in particular provide improved shortand longer term moisturizing effectiveness, while at the same timereducing stickiness and avoiding a greasy feel on the skin. Thecompositions also display excellent stability characteristics at bothnormal and elevated temperatures.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

Accordingly, in one aspect of the present invention, there is provided askin care composition in the form of an oil-in-water dispersioncomprising one or more distinct oil phases, wherein the primary oilphase is present in a level of from about 4% to about 16% by weight andwherein the composition incorporates from about 2% to about 10% of anemulsifier capable of forming liquid crystals in water. Preferably, theemulsifier is a fatty acid ester blend based on a mixture of sorbitanfatty acid ester and sucrose fatty acid ester, and wherein the ratio ofprimary oil phase to fatty acid ester emulsifier is in the range fromabout 6:1 to about 1:1.

The compositions of this aspect of the present invention take the formof an oil-in-water emulsion or dispersion containing one or moredistinct emulsified or dispersed oil phases and an essential emulsifiercomponent as well as various optional ingredients as indicated below.All levels and ratios are by weight of total composition, unlessotherwise indicated. Chain length and degrees of ethoxylation are alsospecified on a weight average basis.

According to the first aspect of the invention, a first essentialcomponent of the composition herein is an oil phase, referred to hereinas a primary oil phase, which can comprise a single oily component or amixture of oily components in miscible or homogeneous form. This ispreferably present in 5% an amount of from about 4% to about 16%, morepreferably from about to about 11% by weight of composition. The levelof primary oil phase component is found to be important herein forachieving optimum moisturization and greasiness characteristics. Theprimary oil phase generally comprises a natural or synthetic oilselected from mineral, vegetable, and animal oils, fats and waxes, fattyacid esters, fatty alcohols, fatty acids and mixtures thereof havingemollient cosmetic properties. The primary oil phase component ispreferably essentially silicone-free, ie contains no more than about10%, preferably no more than about 5% by weight of silicon-basedmaterials. It will be understood that the oil phase may contain smalllevels (eg. up to about 25%, preferably 10%) of oil phase solubleemulsifier ingredients. Such ingredients are not to be considered as oilphase components from the viewpoint of determining the oil phase leveland required HLB. In preferred embodiments, the overall required HLB ofthe oil phase is from about 8 to about 12, especially from about 9 toabout 11, required HLB being determined by summing the individualrequired HLB values for each component of the oil phase multiplied byits W/W percentage in the oil phase (see ICI Literature on HLB system).

Suitable primary oil phase components for use herein include, forexample, optionally hydroxy-substituted C₈ -C₅₀ unsaturated fatty acidsand esters thereof, C₁ -C₂₄ esters of C₈ -C₃₀ saturated fatty acids suchas isopropyl myristate, cetyl palmirate and octyldodecylmyristate(Wickenol 142), beeswax, saturated and unsaturated fatty alcohols suchas behenyl alcohol and cetyl alcohol, hydrocarbons such as mineral oils,petrolatum and squalane, fatty sorbitan esters (see U.S. Pat. No.3988255, Selden, issued Oct. 26, 1976), lanolin and lanolin derivatives,animal and vegetable triglycerides such as almond oil, peanut oil, wheatgerm oil, linseed oil, jojoba oil, oil of apricot pits, walnuts, palmnuts, pistachio nuts, sesame seeds, rapeseed, cads oil, corn oil, peachpit oil, poppyseed oil, pine oil, castor oil, soybean oil, avocado oil,safflower oil, coconut oil, hazelnut oil, olive oil, grapeseed oil, andsunflower seed oil and C₁ -C₂₄ esters of dimer and trimer acids such asdiisopropyl dimerate, diisostearylmalate, diisostearyldimerate andtriisostearyltrimerate. Of the above, highly preferred are the mineraloils, petrolatums, unsaturated fatty acids and esters thereof andmixtures thereof.

Compositions herein preferably also comprise a secondary oil phase whichin preferred embodiments is present in a level of from about 0.1% toabout 20%, especially from about 1% to about 10% by weight ofcomposition. Moreover, the primary oil phase is preferably present inweight excess of the secondary oil phase. The secondary oil phasecomponent is preferably silicone-based. Suitable silicone componentsherein include water-insoluble silicones inclusive of non-volatilepolyalkyl and polyaryl siloxane gums and fluids, volatile cyclic andlinear polyalkylsiloxanes, polyalkoxylated silicones, amino andquaternary ammonium modified silicones, rigid cross-linked andreinforced silicones and mixtures thereof. In preferred embodiments thesilicone component is a silicone gum having a molecular weight of fromabout 200,000 to about 4,000,000 or a mixture of silicones including thesilicone gum. In mixtures, the silicone gum preferably constitutes fromabout 5% to about 40%, especially from about 10% to 20% by weight of thesilicone mixture. The silicone or silicone mixture preferablyconstitutes from about 0.1% to about 20%, more preferably from about0.5% to about 15%, and especially from about 1% to about 10% by weightof composition.

A preferred silicone component for use herein consists essentially of:

(i) a silicone having a molecular weight of from about 200,000 to about4,000,000 selected from dimethiconol, fluorosilicone and dimethicone andmixtures thereof; and

(ii) a silicone-based carrier having a viscosity from about 0.65 mm².s⁻¹to about 100 mm².s⁻¹, wherein the ratio of i) to ii) is from about 10:90to about 20:80 and wherein said silicone component has a final viscosityof from about 500 mm².s⁻¹ to about 10,000 mm².s⁻¹.

Dimethiconol-based silicones suitable for use herein have the chemicalstructure (II):

    HO(CH.sub.3).sub.2 SiO (CH.sub.3).sub.2 SiO!.sub.n (CH.sub.3).sub.2 SiOH

where n is from about 2000 to about 40,000, preferably from about 3000to about 30,000.

The fluorosilicones useful herein have a molecular weight of from about200,000 to about 300,000, preferably from about 240,000 to about 260,000and most preferably about 250,000.

The silicone gums include dimethicones as described by Petrarch andothers including U.S. Pat. No. 4,152,416, May 1, 1979 to Spitzer, et al,and Noll, Walter, Chemistry and Technology of Silicones. New York:Academic Press 1968. Also describing silicone gums are General ElectricSilicone Rubber Product Data Sheets SE 30, SE 33, SE 54 and SE 76."Silicone gum" materials useful herein denote high molecular weightmaterials having a mass-average molecular weight in excess of about200,000 and preferably from about 200,000 to about 4,000,000. Typically,they have a viscosity at 25° C. in excess of about 1,000,000 mm².s⁻¹.Specific examples include polydimethylsiloxane, (polydimethylsiloxane)(methylvinylsiloxane) copolymer, poly(dimethylsiloxane) (diphenyl)(methylvinylsiloxane) copolymer and mixtures thereof.

The silicone-based carriers suitable for use herein include certainsilicone fluids. The silicone fluid can be either a polyalkyl siloxane,a polyaryl siloxane, a polyalkylaryl siloxane or a polyether siloxanecopolymer. Mixtures of these fluids can also be used and are preferredin certain executions.

The polyalkyl siloxane fluids that can be used include, for example,polydimethylsiloxanes with viscosities ranging from about 0.65 to600,000 mm².s⁻¹, preferably from about 0.65 to about 10,000 mm².s⁻¹ at25° C. These siloxanes are available, for example, from the GeneralElectric Company as the Viscasil (RTM) series and from Dow Corning asthe Dow Corning 200 series. The essentially non-volatilepolyalkylarylsiloxane fluids that can be used include, for example,polymethylphenylsiloxanes, having viscosities of about 0.65 to 30,000mm².s⁻¹ at 25° C. These siloxanes are available, for example, from theGeneral Electric Company as SF 1075 methyl phenyl fluid or from DowCorning as 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid. Also suitable for use herein arecertain volatile cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes having a ring structureincorporating from about 3 to about 7 (CH₃)₂ SiO moieties.

The viscosity can be measured by means of a glass capillary viscometeras set forth in Dow Corning Corporate Test Method CTM0004, Jul. 29,1970. Preferably the viscosity of the silicone blend constituting thesecondary oil phase ranges from about 500 mm².s⁻¹ to about 100,000mm².s⁻¹, preferably from about 1000 mm².s⁻¹ to about 10,000 mm².s⁻¹.

The most preferred silicone component for use herein is a dimethiconolgum having a molecular weight of from about 200,000 to about 4,000,000along with a silicone carrier with a viscosity of about 0.65 to 100mm².s⁻¹. An example of this silicone component is Dow Corning Q2-1403(85% 5 mm².s⁻¹ Dimethicone Fluid/15% Dimethiconol) and Dow CorningQ2-1401 available from Dow Corning.

Another class of silicone component suitable for use herein includepolydiorganosiloxane-polyoxyalkylene copolymers containing at least onepolydiorganosiloxane segment and at least one polyoxyalkylene segment,said polydiorganosiloxane segment consisting essentially of

    R.sub.b SiO.sub.(4-b)/2

siloxane units wherein b has a value of from about 0 to about 3,inclusive, there being an average value of approximately 2 R radicalsper silicon for all siloxane units in the copolymer, and R denotes aradical selected from methyl, ethyl, vinyl, phenyl and a divalentradical bonding said polyoxyalkylene segment to the polydiorganosiloxanesegment, at least about 95% of all R radicals being methyl; and saidpolyoxyalkylene segment having an average molecular weight of at leastabout 1000 and consisting of from about 0 to about 50 mol percentpolyoxypropylene units and from about 50 to about 100 mol percentpolyoxyethylene units, at least one terminal portion of saidpolyoxyalkylene segment being bonded to said polydiorganosiloxanesegment, any terminal portion of said polyoxyalkylene segment not bondedto said polydiorganosiloxane segment being satisfied by a terminatingradical; the weight ratio of polydiorganosiloxane segments topolyoxyalkylene segments in said copolymer having a value of from about2 to about 8. Such polymers are described in U.S. Pat. No.4,268,499.

Preference for use herein are polydiorganosiloxane-polyoxyalkylenecopolymers having the general formula: ##STR1## wherein x and y areselected such that the weight ratio of polydiorgano-siloxane segments topolyoxalkalkylene segments is from about 2 to about 8, the mol ratio ofa:(a+b) is from about 0.5 to about 1, and R is a chain terminatinggroup, especially selected from hydrogen; hydroxyl; alkyl, such asmethyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, benzyl; aryl, such as phenyl; alkoxy suchas methoxy, ethoxy, propoxy, butoxy; benzyloxy; aryloxy, such asphenoxy; alkynyloxy, such as vinyloxy and allyloxy; acyloxy, such asacetoxy, acryloxy and propionoxy and amino, such as dimethylamino.

The number of and average molecular weights of the segments in thecopolymer are such that the weight ratio of polydiorganosiloxanesegments to polyoxyalkylene segments in the copolymer is preferably fromabout 2.5 to about 4.0.

Suitable copolymers are available commercially under the tradenamesBelsil (RTM) from Wacker-Chemie GmbH, Geschaftsbereich S, PostfachD-8000 Munich 22 and Abil (RTM) from Th. Goldschmidt Ltd., Tego House,Victoria Road, Ruislip, Middlesex, HA40YL. Particularly preferred foruse herein are Belsil (RTM) 6031 and Abil (RTM) B88183.

The above polydiorganosiloxane--polyoxyalkylene copolymers can be usedabove or in admixture with other silicones, for example, the volatilecyclic polydimethylsiloxanes. Moreover, such copolymers and mixtures canbe used in combination with the herein defined silicone gums.

The silicone component is valuable herein in conjunction with theliquid-crystal forming emulsifier for modifying the perceived skin feelof the composition. Highly preferred in this respect are silicone gumshaving a molecular weight of from 200,000 to 4,000,000. Thus accordingto another aspect of the invention, there is provided a skin carecomposition in the form of an oil-in-water dispersion which comprises asilicone or mixture of silicones in a level of from 0.1% to 20% byweight, the silicone or silicone mixture comprising a silicone gumhaving a molecular weight of from about 200,000 to about 4,000,000 andwherein the composition additionally incorporates from about 2% to about10% of an emulsifier capable of forming liquid crystals in water, theemulsifier being a fatty acid ester blend based on a mixture of sorbitanfatty acid ester and sucrose fatty acid ester. The fatty acid ester ineach instance is preferably C₈ -C₂₄, more preferably C₁₀ -C₂₀. Thesilicone or silicone mixture is preferably present in a level of fromabout 0.5% to about 15%, preferably from 1% to about 10% by weight ofcomposition, this level being based on the total blend of gum andnon-gum silicone materials. In preferred embodiments, the compositionsof this aspect of the invention comprise a primary oil phase which isessentially silicone-free together with a secondary oil phase comprisingthe silicone gum. The primary oil phase is described in detail above.

Preferred embodiments herein comprise from about 0.1% to about 10% byweight of an unsaturated fatty acid or ester. Preferred unsaturatedfatty acids and esters for use herein are optionally hydroxy substitutedC₈ -C₅₀ unsaturated fatty acids and esters, especially esters ofricinoleic acid. The unsaturated fatty acid or ester component isvaluable herein in combination with the liquid crystal formingemulsifier for improving the skin feel and rub-in characteristics of thecompositon. Highly preferred in this respect is cetyl ricinoleate.

Thus according to another aspect of the invention, there is provided askin-care composition in the form of an oil-in-water dispersion whereinthe composition incorporates from about 2% to about 10% by weight of anemulsifier capable of forming liquid crystals in water, the emulsifierbeing a fatty acid ester blend based on a mixture of sorbitan fatty acidester and sucrose fatty acid ester, and wherein the compositionadditionally incorporates from about 0.1% to about 10% of an optionallyhydroxy substituted C₈ -C₅₀ unsaturated fatty acid or an ester thereof,preferably an ester of ricinoleic acid.

A second essential ingredient in the composition herein is an emulsifiercapable of forming liquid crystals in water, for example, at ambient orelevated temperatures. Preferably the emulsifier is capable of formingliquid crystals (especially smectic lyotropic liquid crystals) at atemperature in the range from about 20° C. to about 80° C. and inparticular when the emulsifier is incorporated in product or when theproduct is applied to the skin. The emulsifier is preferablyincorporated into the composition in an amount of from about 2% to about10%, preferably from about 3% to about 7% by weight of composition. Theemulsifier preferred for use herein is a fatty acid ester blend based ona mixture of sorbitan or sorbitol fatty acid ester and sucrose fattyacid ester, the fatty acid in each instance being preferably C₈ -C₂₄,more preferably C₁₀ -C₂₀. The preferred fatty acid ester emulsifier fromthe viewpoint of moisturisation is a blend of sorbitan or sorbitol C₁₆-C₂₀ fatty acid ester with sucrose C₁₀ -C₁₆ fatty acid ester, especiallysorbitan stearate and sucrose cocoate. This is commercially availablefrom ICI under the trade name Ariatone 2121. The stabilisation mechanismof formulation derived from Ariatone 2121 is based on the formation ofdistinct liquid crystalline structures in the water phase into which theoil phase is dispersed. In order to achieve optimum moisturisation,absorption and skin feel together with reduced greasiness it isdesirable for the ratio of primary oil to fatty acid ester emulsifier tolie in the range from about 6:1 to about 1:1, preferably from about 4:1to about 1:1.

A wide variety of optional ingredients such as non-occlusivemoisturizers, humectants, gelling agents, neutralizing agents, perfumes,colouring agents and surfactants, can be added to the skin compositionsherein.

The compositions herein can comprise a humectant. Suitable humectantsfor use herein include sorbitol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol,hexylene glycol, ethoxylated glucose derivatives, hexanetriol,glycerine, water-soluble polyglycerylmethacrylate lubricants andpanthenols. A preferred humectant herein is glycerine (sometimes knownas glycerol or glycerin). Chemically, glycerine is 1,2,3-propanetrioland is a product of commerce. One large source of the material is in themanufacture of soap. Also preferred for use herein is butylene glycol.

In the present compositions, the humectant is preferably present at alevel of from about 0.1% to about 20%, more preferably from about 1% toabout 10%, and especially from about 2% to about 5% by weight ofcomposition.

Suitable polyglycerylmethacrylate lubricants for use in the compositionsof this invention are available under the trademark Lubrajel (RTM) fromGuardian Chemical Corporation, 230 Marcus Blvd., Hauppage, N.Y. 11787.In general, Lubrajels can be described as hydrates or clathrates whichare formed by the reaction of sodium glycerate with a methacrylic acidpolymer. Thereafter, the hydrate or clathrate is stabilized with a smallamount of propylene glycol, followed by controlled hydration of theresulting product. Lubrajels are marketed in a number of grades ofvarying glycerate: polymer ratio and viscosity. Suitable Lubrajelsinclude Lubrajel TW, Lubrajel CG and Lubrajel MS, Lubrajel WA, LubrajelDV and so-called Lubrajel Oil.

At least part (up to about 5% by weight of composition) of the humectantcan be incorporated in the form of an admixture with a particulatelipophilic or hydrophobic carrier material. The carrier material andhumectant can be added either to the aqueous or disperse phase.

This copolymer is particularly valuable for reducing shine andcontrolling oil while helping to provide effective moisturizationbenefits. The cross-linked hydrophobic polymer is preferably in the formof a copolymer lattice with at least one active ingredient disperseduniformly throughout and entrapped within the copolymer lattice.Alternatively, the hydrophobic polymer can take the form of a porousparticle having a surface area (N₂,BET) in the range from about 50 to500, preferably 100 to 300 m². g-¹ and having the active ingredientabsorbed therein.

The cross-linked hydrophobic polymer is preferably present in an amountof from about 0.1% to about 10% by weight and is preferably incorporatedin the external aqueous phase. The active ingredient can be one or moreor a mixture of skin compatible oils, skin compatible humectants,emollients, moisturizing agents and sunscreens. In one embodiment, thepolymer material is in the form of a powder, the powder being a combinedsystem of particles. The system of powder particles forms a latticewhich includes unit particles of less than about one micron in averagediameter, agglomerates of fused unit particles of sized in the range ofabout 20 to 100 microns in average diameter and aggregates of clustersof fused agglomerates of sizes in the range of about 200 to 1,200microns in average diameter.

The powder material of this embodiment can be broadly described as across-linked "post absorbed" hydrophobic polymer lattice. The powderpreferably has entrapped and dispersed therein, an active which may bein the form of a solid, liquid or gas. The lattice is in particulateform and constitutes free flowing discrete solid particles when loadedwith the active material. The lattice may contain a predeterminedquantity of the active material. A suitable polymer has the structuralformula: ##STR2## where the ratio of x to y is 80:20, R' is --CH₂ CH₂ --and R" is --(CH₂)₁₁ CH₃.

The hydrophobic polymer is a highly crosslinked polymer, moreparticularly a highly cross-linked polymethacrylate copolymer. Thematerial is manufactured by the Dow Corning Corporation, Midland.Michigan, USA, and sold under the trademark POLYTRAP (RTM). It is anultralight free-flowing white powder and the particles are capable ofabsorbing high levels of lipophilic liquids and some hydrophilic liquidswhile at the same time maintaining a free-flowing powder character. Thepowder structure consists of a lattice of unit particles less than onemicron that are fused into agglomerates of 20 to 100 microns and theagglomerates are loosely clustered into macro-particles or aggregates ofabout 200 to about 1200 micron size. The polymer powder is capable ofcontaining as much as four times its weight of fluids, emulsions,dispersion or melted solids.

Adsorption of actives onto the polymer powder can be accomplished usinga stainless steel mixing bowl and a spoon, wherein the active is addedto the powder and the spoon is used to gently fold the active into thepolymer powder. Low viscosity fluids may be adsorbed by addition of thefluids to a sealable vessel containing the polymer and then tumbling thematerials until a consistency is achieved. More elaborate blendingequipment such as ribbon or twin cone blenders can also be employed. Thepreferred active ingredient for use herein is glycerine. Preferably, theweight ratio of humectant: carrier is from about 1:4 to about 3:1.

Also suitable as a highly cross-linked polymethacrylate copolymer isMicrosponges 5647. This takes the form of generally spherical particlesof cross-linked hydrophobic polymer having a pore size of from about0.01 to about 0.05 μm and a surface area of 200-300 m² /g. Again, it ispreferably loaded with humectant in the levels described above.

The compositions of the invention can also contain a hydrophilic gellingagent at a level preferably from about 0.01% to about 10%, morepreferably from about 0.02% to about 2%, and especially from about 0.02%to about 0.5%. The gelling agent preferably has a viscosity (1% aqueoussolution, 20° C., Brookfield RVT) of at least about 4000 mPa.s, morepreferably at least about 10,000 mPa.s and especially at least 50,000mPa.s.

Suitable hydrophilic gelling agents can generally be described aswater-soluble or colloidally water-soluble polymers, and includecellulose ethers (e.g. hydroxyethyl cellulose, methyl cellulose,hydroxypropylmethyl cellulose), polyvinylpyrrolidone, polyvinylalcohol,guar gum, hydroxypropyl guar gum and xanthan gum.

Preferred hydrophilic gelling agents herein, however, are acrylicacid/ethyl acrylate copolymers and the carboxyvinyl polymers sold by theB. F. Goodrich Company under the trade mark of Carbopol resins. Theseresins consist essentially of a colloidally water-soluble polyalkenylpolyether crosslinked polymer of acrylic acid crosslinked with from0.75% to 2.00% of a crosslinking agent such as for example polyallylsucrose or polyallyl pentaerythritol. Examples include Carbopol 934,Carbopol 940, Carbopol 950, Carbopol 980, Carbopol 951 and Carbopol 981.Carbopol 934 is a water-soluble polymer of acrylic acid crosslinked withabout 1% of a polyallyl ether of sucrose having an average of about 5.8allyl groups for each sucrose molecule. A most preferred polymer isCarbopol 951. Also suitable for use herein are hydrophobically-modifiedcross-linked polymers of acrylic acid having amphipathic propertiesavailable under the Trade Name Carbopol 1382, Carbopol 1342 and PemulenTR-1 (CTFA Designation: Acrylates/10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer). Acombination of the polyalkenyl polyether cross-linked acrylic acidpolymer and the hydrophobically modified cross-linked acrylic acidpolymer is also suitable and is preferred for use herein. The gellingagents herein are particularly valuable for providing excellentstability characteristics over both normal and elevated temperatures.

Neutralizing agents suitable for use in neutralizing acidic groupcontaining hydrophilic gelling agents herein include sodium hydroxide,potassium hydroxide, ammonium hydroxide, monoethanolamine,diethanolamine and triethanolamine.

The compositions of the invention are in emulsion form and arepreferably formulated so as to have a product viscosity of at leastabout 4,000 mPa.s and preferably in the range from about 4,000 to about300,000 mPa.s, more preferably from about 8,000 to about 200,000 mPa.sand especially from about 10,000 to about 50,000 mPa.s (250° C., neat,Brookfield RVT Spindle No. 5).

The compositions of the invention can also contain from about 0.1% toabout 10%, preferably from about 1% to about 5% of a panthenolmoisturizer. The panthenol moisturizer can be selected from D-panthenol( R!-2,4-dihydroxy-N- 3-hydroxypropyl)!-3,3-dimethylbutamide),DL-panthenol, calcium pantothenate, royal jelly, panthetine,pantotheine, panthenyl ethyl ether, pangamic acid, pyridoxin, pantoyllactose and Vitamin B complex. Highly preferred from the viewpoint ofskin care and tack reduction is D-panthenol.

The compositions of the present invention can additionally comprise fromabout 0.001% to about 0.5%, preferably from about 0.002% to about 0.05%,more preferably from about 0.005% to about 0.02% by weight ofcarboxymethylchitin. Chitin is a polysaccharide which is present in theintegument of lobsters and crabs and is a mucopolysaccharide having beta(1-4) linkages of N-acetyl-D-glucosamine. Carboxymethylchitin isprepared by treating the purified chitin material with alkali followedby monochloracetic acid. It is sold commercially in the form of a dilute(approximately 0.1% to 0.5% by weight) aqueous solution under the nameChitin Liquid available from A & E Connock Ltd., Fordingbridge,Hampshire, England.

Other optional materials include keratolytic agents such as salicylicacid; proteins and polypeptides and derivatives thereof; water-solubleor solubilizable preservatives such as Germall 115, methyl, ethyl,propyl and butyl esters of hydroxybenzoic acid, benzyl alcohol, EDTA,Euxyl (RTM) K400, Bromopol (2-bromo-2-nitropropane-1,3-diol) andphenoxypropanol; anti-bacterials such as Irgasan (RTM) andphenoxyethanol (preferably at levels of from 0.1% to about 5%); solubleor colloidally-soluble moisturising agents such as hylaronic acid andstarch-grafted sodium polyacrylates such as Sanwet (RTM) IM-1000,IM-1500 and IM-2500 available from Celanese Superabsorbent Materials,Portsmith, Va., USA and described in U.S. Pat. No. 4,076,663; colouringagents; perfumes and perfume solubilizers and additionalsurfactants/emulsifiers such as fatty alcohol ethoxylates, ethoxylatedpolyol fatty acid esters, wherein the polyol can be selected fromglycerine, propyleneglycol, ethyleneglycol, sorbitol, sorbitan,polypropyleneglycol, glucose and sucrose. Examples include glycerylmonohydroxy stearate and stearyl alcohol ethoxylated with an average offrom 10 to 200 moles of ethyleneoxide per mole of alcohol and PEG-6caprylic/capric glycerides.

Preferred embodiments of the invention additionally comprise from about0.1% to about 5% by weight of aluminium starch octenylsuccinate.Aluminium starch octenylsuccinate is the aluminium salt of the reactionproduct of octenylsuccinic anhydride with starch and is commerciallyavailable under the trade name from Dry Flo National Starch & ChemicalLtd. Dry Flo is useful herein from the viewpoint of skin feel andapplication characteristics.

Other optional materials herein include pigments. Pigments suitable foruse in the compositions of the present invention can be organic and/orinorganic. Also included within the term pigment are materials having alow colour or lustre such as matte finishing agents, and also lightscattering agents. Examples of suitable pigments are iron oxides,acyglutamate iron oxides, ultramarine blue, D&C dyes, carmine, andmixtures thereof. Depending upon the type of composition, a mixture ofpigments will normally be used. The preferred pigments for use hereinfrom the viewpoint of moisturisation, skin feel, skin appearance andemulsion compatibility are treated pigments. The pigments can be treatedwith compounds wuch as amino acids, silicones, lecithin and ester oils.

The pH of the compositions is preferably from about 4 to about 9, morepreferably from about 5 to about 7.5.

The invention is illustrated by the following examples

EXAMPLES I TO V

    ______________________________________                                                  I      II      III     IV    V                                      ______________________________________                                        Cetyl Alcohol                                                                             0.25     0.3     0.2   0.3   0.25                                 Stearic Acid                                                                              0.11     0.2     0.1   0.2   0.1                                  Steareth 100                                                                              0.1      0.1     0.15  0.15  0.15                                 GMHS (1)    0.15     0.2     0.1   0.2   0.15                                 Cetyl Palmitate                                                                           3.0      2       3     4     2.5                                  Mineral Oil 2.0      3       4     3     3.5                                  Petrolatum  3.00     2       2.5   4     3.5                                  Wickenol 142 (RTM)                                                                        0.60     1       1     1     0.7                                  Dimethicone 200                                                                           0.3      0.4     0.5   0.5   0.4                                  Propyl Paraben                                                                            0.08     0.08    0.07  0.08  0.07                                 Arlatone (RTM) 2121                                                                       6        4       7     5     4                                    Glycerin    3        3       3     2     3                                    Carbopol (RTM) 1342                                                                       0.095    0.075   0.075 0.075 0.075                                Carbopol (RTM) 951                                                                        0.09     0.08    0.09  0.09  0.08                                 Na4 EDTA    0.1      0.2     0.1   0.1   0.1                                  Methyl Paraben                                                                            0.175    0.175   0.175 0.175 0.175                                KOH         0.3      0.2     0.2   0.2   0.2                                  Dimethicone Q21403                                                                        3        --      4     3     --                                   CeRiccinoleate                                                                            --       2       --    1     --                                   Butylene Glycol                                                                           --       --      --    2     --                                   DryFlo (RTM)                                                                              --       1       --    0.5   --                                   Perfume     0.2      0.2     --    0.2   --                                   Colour      0.0004   0.0002  0.0003                                                                              --    --                                   ______________________________________                                         (1) Glycerylmonohydroxystearate                                          

The compositions are made as follows:

A first premix of thickening agents, Arlatone 2121 and other watersoluble ingredients is prepared by admixing in water and heating. Asecond premix of oil phase ingredients other than silicone gum isprepared by mixing and heating and is added to the aqueous premix.

The resulting mixture is cooled. The silicone gum is then added to theresulting oil-in-water emulsion and the mixture is cooled before addingminor ingredients. The composition is ready for packaging.

The compositions display improved moisturisation, skin feel and skincare characteristics together with reduced greasiness and excellentrub-in and absorption characteristics.

EXAMPLES VI to X

    ______________________________________                                                  VI     VII     VIII    IX    X                                      ______________________________________                                        Cetyl Alcohol                                                                             0.25     0.3     0.2   0.3   0.25                                 Stearic Acid                                                                              0.11     0.2     0.1   0.2   0.1                                  Steareth 100                                                                              0.1      0.1     0.15  0.15  0.15                                 GMHS (1)    0.15     0.2     0.1   0.2   0.15                                 Cetyl Palmitate                                                                           3.0      2       3     4     2.5                                  Mineral Oil 2.0      3       4     3     3.5                                  Petrolatum  3.00     2       2.5   4     3.5                                  Wickenol 142 (RTM)                                                                        0.60     1       1     1     0.7                                  Dimethicone 200                                                                           0.3      0.4     0.5   0.5   0.4                                  Propyl Paraben                                                                            0.08     0.08    0.07  0.08  0.07                                 Arlatone (RTM) 2121                                                                       6        4       7     5     4                                    Glycerin    3        3       1.5   2     3                                    Carbopol (RTM) 1342                                                                       0.095    0.075   0.075 0.075 0.075                                Carbopol (RTM) 951                                                                        0.09     0.08    0.09  0.09  0.08                                 Na4 EDTA    0.1      0.2     0.1   0.1   0.1                                  Methyl Paraben                                                                            0.175    0.175   0.175 0.175 0.175                                KOH         0.3      0.2     0.2   0.2   0.2                                  Dimethicone Q21403                                                                        3        --      4     3     --                                   Cyclomethicone/                                                                           1.0      1.0     --    1.0   1.0                                  dimethicone copolyol                                                          Microsponges 5647                                                                         --       --      3.0   --    --                                   Lecithin    --       0.1     --    --    --                                   Phenoxyethanol                                                                            0.2      0.2     0.2   0.2   0.2                                  CeRiccinoleate                                                                            --       2       --    1     --                                   Butylene Glycol                                                                           --       --      --    2     --                                   DryFlo (RTM)                                                                              --       1       --    0.5   --                                   Perfume     0.2      0.2     --    0.2   --                                   Colour      0.0004   0.0002  0.0003                                                                              --    --                                   ______________________________________                                         (1) Glycerylmonohydroxystearate                                          

The compositions of Examples VI to X are made in the same way as thecompositions of Examples I-V above.

We claim:
 1. A skin care composition in the form of an oil-in-waterdispersion comprising:a) from about 1% to about 20% by weight of asilicone or mixture of silicones wherein the silicone or mixture ofsilicones comprises a silicone gum having a molecular weight of fromabout 200,000 to about 4,000,000; b) from about 0.1% to about 5% byweight of aluminum starch octenylsuccinate; and c) from about 2% toabout 10% by weight of an emulsifier capable of forming liquid crystalsin water, the emulsifier being a fatty acid ester blend comprising amixture of sorbitan fatty acid ester and sucrose fatty acid ester.
 2. Askin care composition in the form of an oil-in-water dispersioncomprising:a) from about 1% to about 20% by weight of a silicone ormixture of silicones wherein the silicone or mixture of siliconescomprises a silicone gum having a molecular weight of from about 200,000to about 4,000,000; b) from about 0.1% to about 10% by weight of ahydrophilic gelling agent selected from colloidally water-solublepolymers of acrylic acid cross-linked with from about 0.75% to about 2%of a cross-linked agent selected from polyalkyl sucrose and polyalkylpentaerythritol; and c) from about 2% to about 10% by weight of anemulsifier capable of forming liquid crystals in water, the emulsifierbeing a fatty acid ester blend comprising a mixture of sorbitan fattyacid ester and sucrose fatty acid ester.